Showing posts with label Maintenance. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Maintenance. Show all posts

Friday, March 2, 2012

Video: ZipWall Dust Barrier System Demonstration

After yesterday's post "Creating a Square Bubble" I had several request to see a demonstration of the Zipwall system. I hope once you see the product in action you'll understand why I love it so crazy much. Please note I do not work for the Zipwall company nor am I a paid endorser. I just feel that if you are involved in rehab construction that this tool is as essential as a tape measure.


Thursday, March 1, 2012

Building a Plastic Square Bubble


I love making upgrades and repairing empty apartments. Any dust that you create doesn't end up being an a issue to anyone except you and the crew. However there are times when repairs need to be made on occupied premises or a long term tenant is due for an apartment spruce up. Until recently I would haul dozens of drop clothes, reams of plastic and rolls of low tack masking tape and proceed to block off and cover surfaces to keep an occupied apartment clean and dust free. But now...........

I finally invested in the "ZipWall Dust Barrier System" This has to be one of the best purchases I have ever made. For years I put off buying what amounts to 4 telescoping poles because I felt the "system" was too pricey. Boy was I wrong. The ZipWall system paid for it self the first day of use, which happened to be Today!

Set up was takes minute as opposed to a few hours of "securing the worksite".
The ZipWall tension spring loaded poles allow you to create a plastic square bubble prevents dust from spreading through out the home. Subsequently, clean up is a zip. And best of all there are no upset calls from sneezing tenants.


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Tuesday, August 23, 2011

An Ounce of Prevention .....


A seasoned landlord shared his experiences at the last move out.
His tenant had been in the property long enough to have two more children, and now was moving into a bigger property.
And this landlord could see what was coming next.
“Long-term tenants always seem to do a bad job when they move out,” he explains.
In fact, the longer someone has been a tenant, the harder it is to remember what the place looked like before they moved in, or what the lease says about the move out.
This case was no exception. “I was at the property a couple days before the move doing some repairs,” he continues. “I don’t think this tenant understood that cleaning was her responsibility.”
Of course, every tenant wants their deposit back. The move out can quickly lead to a landlord tenant dispute.
Here, our landlord asked the tenant if she would like to do a walk thru a little early–a “pre-walk thru” if you will, so the landlord could counsel her on what would need to happen in order to get the deposit back. “I really didn’t want to be the one cleaning this up,” he says.
Propping a baby on her lap, the tenant took copious notes, and then got to work.
In the end the unit was clean as a whistle, and the tenant will be getting her deposit back– a true win-win.

Friday, May 20, 2011

Painting Like a Pro


A sure-fire way to make your home look better, prolong the life of your siding and add resale value all at once is to give the exterior a fresh coat of paint. But with a contractor paint job running in the thousands of dollars, you may be considering undertaking the task on your own this summer. If so, here are some tips and a couple of tools that can help you get the job done quickly with professional results.

Proper Preparation

Proper preparation of the siding is absolutely essential to a good-quality, long-lasting paint job. Loose and peeling paint must be removed first and the edges of the remaining paint feathered down to create a smooth surface for the next coat. Painting over old paint that is not well-adhered is pretty much a guarantee that the new paint job will fail. There is no way around this less-than-enjoyable task, so just resign yourself to it.

But while you can’t avoid it, you can make it a little easier by using some power tools. One, you might want to consider is Wagner’s PaintEater. The PaintEater is a hand-held electric tool that is somewhat similar to a disc sander, but instead of using sandpaper, it uses a 3M disc made from spun fiber. The fiber disc is aggressive in removing paint, but its unique design prevents the old paint from clogging up the sanding surface, so you get a lot more work done without constantly replacing the paper.

The PaintEater removes loose paint quickly, and will also feather down the edges of the remaining paint for a better, smoother surface. It can be used on wood, masonry and cement, but be aware that the rotary motion and aggressive paint-removal disc make it unsuitable for siding shingles or textured siding.

In addition to a tool such as the PaintEater, you’ll also need a hand scraper and a sander to take care of the corners and the hard to reach areas. With any of these tools, be sure to wear eye protection to shield your eyes from flying paint chips — which can be surprisingly sharp and dangerous — as well as a dust mask or respirator to protect you against inhaling the dust.

When you’re done with the scraping, the bare surfaces need to be primed to protect the wood and provide good adhesion for the top coat. Use a good-quality exterior primer that’s compatible with your top coat, and apply one or two coats on all bare surfaces.

When preparing the siding on an older home, you need to be very aware of the possibility of lead paint. Even if the home has been repainted with latex, one or more of the underlying layers may contain lead. For more information about testing for and removing lead paint, contact the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) online at www.epa.gov/lead, or by phone at 1-800-424-LEAD (424-5323)

Airless Painting

Professional painters rely on airless paint-spraying equipment to apply paint quickly and cleanly with minimal overspray. You can rent a professional-grade airless sprayer, but the occasional user might want to consider investing purchasing a airless sprayer such as Wagner's Paint Crew Plus.

Designed with homeowners in mind, the Paint Crew Plus has a 2800 PSI piston pump that’s driven by a 1/2-horsepower electric motor, so you have plenty of power for spraying a variety of finishes. The sprayer features a pressure selector that allows you to vary the pressure between 1000 and 2800 PSI, which is very helpful in choosing the best pressure for the finish you’re working with. Higher pressures are needed for spraying many of today’s exterior latex paints, and you can dial the sprayer down to a lower pressure to give you better control and less overspray when working with thinner materials.

The Paint Crew has wheels and a telescoping handle for easy transport, as well as a 2 1/2-gallon paint hopper that’s removable for easier cleaning. You also get a 25-foot high-pressure spray hose, a professional-grade metal spray gun and a reversible spray tip. A convenient hose wrap holds the hose when not in use, and there is a storage area for additional spray tips. Also included is a roller-arm assembly, which attaches to the hose in place of the spray gun, allowing for faster rolling of interior surfaces.

With this or any other type of airless sprayer, NEVER point it at anyone. The high-pressure pumps used with airless sprayers are capable of pushing paint through a person’s skin, so be sure you read and understand all of the safety precautions.

Wednesday, September 1, 2010

Leaky Roof: Where to find the problem and the solution by Jay Dee


So your roof is looking a little shabby and you are wondering when it's time to replace your roof. There are some places on your roof you can check, they tend to be the weakest points on the roof due to high volume of water or trees covering a section of a roof.

Asphalt shingles are a large blanket covering an area of a lot of moisture. Over the years it is quite common especially with bad ventilation to notice that the shingles curl upwards. Over the years the moisture need to find a way out, when the heat softens the asphalt the shingles actually go against gravity and curl upwards, cedar shake has a tendency to do this as well. over time the curling cause the shingles and shakes to split and crack. It generally takes three in a row to split vertically and trouble will begin.

Chimney and skylights over time have the ability to accumulate debris and moss growth around the base where they meet the roof. generally behind the chimney or skylight enough debris accumulates for the water to dam up and push the flow against gravity up a shingle and into the attic. you could stop this leak by cleaning around the flashing and making sure that water has a clear path towards the eaves trough.

Valleys are the area on a roof where two angled roofs meet and is also a point on the roof that has the most water running along it. Using steel in valleys is a common but new practice with the majority of the roofs have knitted shingles in the valley. Shingles are strong against the elements but are not designed to deal with that kind of flow of water. Valleys are probably the biggest reason roofs leak.

Friday, April 30, 2010

Rental Property Quick Fixes


by Michael Monteiro

When it comes to tiny property repairs, a molehill can very easily become a mountain if it’s not resolved quickly.
Whether you’re a DIY kind of person or would prefer to have a contractor or handyman take care of your property’s repairs, time is of the essence.
Not only is it important to take care of repairs and maintenance quickly for your tenants’ sakes, but also for your bank account’s. In so many cases, a little problem that goes unaddressed can turn into a big, expensive problem not so far down the line.
Budget for the unexpected.
Setting money aside for those unexpected repairs that always come up sooner or later is one of the smartest moves you can make as a landlord. No matter how good your intentions are, it’s almost impossible to move on any repair quickly if the funding simply isn’t there.

Move quickly, no matter how innocent an issue appears.
Cracked plaster? Leaking roof? Chipped window? All of these are examples of “little” issues that are easy to set aside, but will only grow with time. Cracked plaster can easily begin to crumble, resulting in a much bigger mess. A leak can expand and run rampant, causing significant water damage. A tiny window chip can quickly spread, leaving no other option than a complete window replacement.

Maintenance and small repairs go hand-in-hand.
There are some maintenance duties that count just as much as repairs, and should be performed just as efficiently. Cleaning gutters on a bi-annual basis, for example, is critical. Sure, it may not seem like the most pressing job, but you’ll save yourself a lot of money in the long run. Other regular maintenance work that staves off big repairs includes: draining your water heater (once a year); cleaning stove grease filters (every time a tenant moves out); and turning off the water for exterior water faucets (every year when the temperature dips below freezing).
Keep the basics on-hand.If you choose to take the DIY route when it comes to repairs and maintenance, make sure you have the basic tools you’ll need to complete a range of tasks on-hand. You’ll be much more likely to take care of things quickly if everything you need to do it is easily accessible. Click here for tips on putting a basic home repair tool kit together—and, of course, you can add to this kit over time.

Have a professional in mind ahead of time.
Much as it pays to budget for problems before they happen, it also pays to research handyman and contractor options ahead of time. If you already know exactly who the man for the job is, you won’t have to waste any time once the need for a repair crops up.
Repairs don’t have to be a big deal. But they may well become one if not addressed in a timely manner. Having a plan of action in place before repair items ever arise and a no-holds-barred attitude about addressing them immediately is a great way to save yourself a lot of money in the long-run.

Michael Monteiro works for Buildium LLC, maker of online property management software and landlord software for professional property managers, condos and homeowner associations (HOAs) and is author of the The Buildium Property Management Blog.

Friday, March 26, 2010

Dealing with Flooded Basements


As noted in the previous post, Governor Deval Patrick declared Massachusetts was in a state of emergency after 2 major rains storms this past month of March. If your basement has undergone a flood, the first step is to remove the water. If the flooding is minor, then all you need to do is mop the wet areas up with a mop or old towels. However, if the flooding is major, it’s time to bring out the big weapons.

If you don’t have one of the following: portable sump pump, wet vacuum, or wet shop vacuum, go to the store and purchase one or see if you can borrow one from someone that you know. Additionally, places are available where you can rent these. Look in your local telephone book for contact information if you decide to rent the equipment.

You need to consider a few things when determining which equipment you are going to use. The sump pump will require an outlet for the water to be removed. Realize that if your basement is flooding, then the existing drains in your basement may be inaccessible for draining purposes. You will probable need to obtain a long hose to attach to the sump pump so that you can hang it out the window and as far away from the home as possible.

If you select the wet vacuum, realize that it will only be a matter of minutes before you have to empty the holding receptacle. The wet shop vacuum will hold more water, but it will be heavier and more difficult to empty, especially if you are trying to empty the water outside of the home. Make your decision wisely.

Once you have the equipment that you need, begin to remove the water. The best place to begin is most likely the area that is going to sustain the most damage if the water sits. Another option is to begin on the highest section of the room where the water is the lowest and work your way in to the larger pools of water.

If the rain has stopped, open the windows to allow moisture in the air to escape. This will help with the drying out process. Once the water has been removed from the floor of the basement, it is time to begin drying the area as completely as possible ass quickly as possible.

If your heating system has not been affected by the flooding, turn the heat to a higher setting to help with the drying out process. However, remember to open the windows to allow the moisture in the air to escape. Using heat will evaporate the water into the air and the air will become humid and dense with moisture.

Consider using fans to circulate the air and speed up the drying process. Place the fans in such a way that the air is blown away and out rather than into the room. This will help to prevent the growth of mild and mildew.

Another option to speed up the drying out process is to use a dehumidifier. It’s important to close the windows and doors when using a dehumidifier so that it works properly. Keep an eye on the dehumidifier’s holding container and empty it as frequently as is necessary. Once the dehumidifier no longer extracts any moisture from the room, place it in another area of the basement and begin again.

You may need to call in a professional if your heating system sustained water damage. Most likely, your homeowner’s policy requires that it be cleaned by a professional prior to operating it again.

Tuesday, March 2, 2010

Tips for Avoiding Wind Damage to your Properties



Extreme winds brought on by tornados, hurricanes, thunderstorms, and winter storms can cause serious damage to property and may very well place you or others at risk. Don't wait until it's too late. Wind-proofing your properties is a smart way to prevent damage. Below is a checklist can help you evaluate your needs.

During high winds, wind speeds fluctuate and winds may change directions. This puts enormous pressure on all parts of a building. Keeping your house well sealed on the outside will prevent wind from getting into your home and causing damage. In addition, debris carried by high winds can penetrate your home, causing damage and possible injury.

Start at the Top
The roof is one of the most vulnerable parts of your house. The connection between the roof and walls must be strong enough to resist the "uplift" effect of strong winds. Have a building professionally inspected, and install specially designed metal connectors that are appropriate for your roof type (gabled or flat) and wall construction (wood or masonry).

Make sure the roof sheathing is properly installed. From the attic check to make sure the nails penetrate the rafters or trusses. You may need to renail some of the sheathing.

Protect the Windows and Doors
Windows should be protected to reduce the risk of damage or injury caused by flying debris and pressure changes. Here are some options: permanent storm shutters or temporary plywood covers. In the event of an emergency, permanent storm shutters can be quickly and easily closed to protect the windows. Temporary plywood covers are more economical, but are less convenient and attractive. Don't forget to cover any glass sliding doors, French doors, and skylights.

Check to be sure your entry door is secured with at least three hinges and a deadbolt security lock. Solid wood or hollow metal doors are more likely to resist wind pressure and flying debris.

Don't Forget the Yard
Trim the trees around your house that could pose a threat by falling or hitting your home. Put away any yard furniture, barbecue grills, tools, toys, and anything else that could become a flying missile. If you are planning to plant new trees in your yard, try to choose varieties that can withstand high winds.

Garage Doors
Garage doors (particularly two-car) are also vulnerable to damage from high winds. If installing a new garage door, be sure to get one that's designed to withstand high winds. For an existing door, there are fitted bracing kits available to provide additional support.

Friday, February 26, 2010

Inexpensive Solutions to Increase your Property Value

Drive around any neighborhood and you notice a significant number of "FOR RENT" signs in windows and lawns. There is no shortage of vacant apartments in today's market. So how do you get your rental property rented quickly? Below are some inexpensive that can help increase the value of your income properties.



Add some curb appeal by doing some basic landscaping, particularly in the front yard. The front yard is the first thing that potential buyers see, so don't miss out on your chance to pique their interest. Prospective buyers and tenants make up their minds about your home as they walk the first 10 feet from their car to your front door. A junky yard will make them think that you've neglected maintenance. A pristine yard will reassure them that your home is well kept. Focus on a clean cut, straighten up the lawn edges, freshen the landscaping and add some color spots or striking shrubs for impact. Mulch is inexpensive, so use it. If your yard lacks interest, consider constructing a retaining wall. Use railroad ties, bricks, or stones to construct that wall. The landscape design should complement your home's style and colors.

Get a new front door, or give the existing one a facelift. Paint the front door a complementary but bold color. Choose a color that says, "Look at me!" Once you're finished painting the door, install a new doorknob that emphasizes sturdiness and class. Also install a new kick-plate that matches your lockset finish. Remember, while your prospective homebuyer or tenant is waiting for you or the real estate agent to let them in, they are observing your front door. If you have an old storm door, get rid of it. If you really feel the need for a storm door, install one of those with a lot of window space to highlight the bold color of your front door.

Install some blinds and window shades. Certain rooms could really use blinds or shades to emphasize style. The best places to start are the living room, kitchen, master bedroom, and master bathroom. These are the four rooms that prospective buyers and tenants will study most when evaluating your property. Pick window shades that complement existing furniture or your paint color. If you want to stick with inexpensive vinyl blinds, then make sure all the blinds in the room are a matching color. When showing a home during the day, you should always have your blinds and shades open to let in abundant light (unless you've got a clear view of the mess in your neighbor's backyard).

Make sure every light bulb in the house works. Always make sure that every light bulb in your home works. If the prospective homebuyer or tenant can't see your place, then you can't expect them to like your place. When people see lamps with one good bulb but three burned-out ones, they think that you don't maintain the residence and they worry about other deferred maintenance. Where it's safe, use higher wattage light bulbs in your lamps for a bright, warm atmosphere. Also consider slightly pink-tinted or full spectrum "natural" light bulbs to create a warm glow for your home. Don't forget about the bulbs in your basement and in your exterior lamps.

Refinish your hardwood floors. Most people like hardwood floors, particularly if the floor has a luster to it. If your hardwood floors are stained, you still may able to sand them and apply a darker finish that hides stains. If your hardwood floors don't need to be sanded but have dull spots or cracks, try some off-the-shelf refinishing agents or cleansers. Murphy's® Oil Soap or Rejuvenate polish are personal favorites to restore that classic wood look.

Shampoo your carpet. Yes, many people like new carpet for obvious reasons. However, we can't always afford to buy new carpet, for obvious reasons. Rent a carpet cleaning vacuum or hire a shampoo service. The proper detergent and equipment can get rid of old stains and make odors disappear.

READ more on the member's page of the www.salemlandlords.org